Heat the oven to 400°F (200°C). Prick each sweet potato a few times with a fork and set them on a foil- or parchment-lined baking sheet.
Roast for 50–65 minutes, until a knife slides into the thickest part with no resistance and some syrupy juices have leaked onto the pan.
While the potatoes roast, melt the butter in a small light-colored saucepan over medium heat. Keep cooking, swirling the pan, until it foams, then smells nutty and the milk solids at the bottom turn golden brown, 3–5 minutes. Pour into a bowl at once so it does not burn.
When the potatoes are cool enough to handle, split them and scoop the flesh into a large bowl. Discard the skins.
Add the brown butter, maple syrup, warm milk, orange zest and juice, cinnamon, nutmeg and salt. Mash with a potato masher or beat with a hand mixer until smooth, adding a splash more milk if it seems stiff.
Taste and adjust the salt, maple and pepper. Spoon into a warm serving dish and top with chopped pecans if you like.